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What is leather?
Forms of leather
Types of leather used for coats and jackets
Other types of leather
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| What
is leather? |
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Leather is a material created through the
tanning of hides, pelts and skins of animals, primarily cows. Leather was
a very important clothing material, and its other uses were legion. Together
with wood, leather formed the basis of much ancient technology. Leather
with the fur still attached is simply called fur. |
| Forms
of leather |
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Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tannin
(hence the name "tanning") and other ingredients found in vegetable
matter, tree bark, and other such sources. It is supple and brown in color,
with the exact shade depending on the mix of chemicals and the color of
the flesh. Vegetable-tanned leather is not stable in water; it tends to
discolor, and if left to soak and then dry it will shrink and become less
supple and harder. In hot water, it will shrink drastically and plasticize,
becoming rigid and eventually becoming brittle.
Vegetable-tanned leather—can be oiled to improve its water resistance.
This supplements the natural oils remaining in the leather itself, which
can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling
of leather, with mink oil, neatsfoot oil or a similar material, keeps
it supple and improves its lifespan dramatically. |
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Alum-tanned leather is tanned using aluminum
salts mixed with a variety of binders and protein sources, such as flour,
egg yolk, etc. Purists argue that alum-tanned leather is technically "tawed"
and not tanned, as the resulting material will rot in water. Very light
shades of leather are possible using this process, but the resulting material
is not as supple as vegetable-tanned leather. |
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Rawhide is made by scraping the skin
thin, soaking it in lime, and then stretching it while it dries. Like alum-tanning,
rawhide
is not technically "leather", but is usually lumped in with the
other forms. Rawhide is stiffer and more brittle than other forms of leather,
and is primarily found in uses such as drum heads where it does not need
to flex significantly; it is also cut up into cords for use in lacing or
stitching, or for making dog toys. |
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Boiled leather is a hide product (vegetable-tanned
leather) that has been hardened by being immersed in hot water, or in boiled
wax or similar substances. Historically, it was used as armour due to its
hardness and light weight, but it has also been used for book binding. |
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Chrome-tanned leather, invented in 1858,
is tanned using chromium sulfate and other salts of chromium. It is more
supple and pliable than vegetable-tanned leather, and does not discolor
or lose shape as drastically in water as vegetable-tanned. More esoteric
colors are possible using chrome tanning. |
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Buck leathers are exceptionaly absorbent
of water. They are made by a labor-intensive process which uses emulsified
oils (often those of animal brains) and which has not been industralized.
They are known for their exceptional softness and their ability to be washed |
| Types
of leather used for coats and jackets |
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Glazed leather is usually processed using pressurized
glass or steel rollers, the leather's surface is polished to a high
luster. It is a vegetable or chrome tanned leather having a bright,
smooth, glossy or glass-like grain finish obtained, according to the
type of leather, by glazing, plating, ironing, or polishing. |
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Nappa leather, is extremely soft
and supple, and is commonly found in higher quality wallets, toiletry
kits, and other personal leather goods. |
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Buckskin is a tawing process that
uses fatty materials to alter the leather. The resulting supple suede-like
hide is usually smoked heavily to prevent it from rotting. Nubuck
(or Buff Nubuck) is a full grain leather where the outer
surface of the leather has a finely sanded, texturised finish, which
gives the boot an added appeal. Nubuck is a full quality leather and
should not be confused with suede. |
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Suede is an interior split of the
hide. It is "fuzzy" on both sides. Suede is less durable
than top-grain. Suede is cheaper because many pieces of suede can
be split from a single thickness of hide, whereas only one piece of
top-grain can be made. However, as the look of full-grain is in demand,
manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede appear to
be full-grain. For example, in one process, glue is mixed with one
side of the suede, which is then pressed through rollers; these flatten
and even out one side of the material, giving it the smooth appearance
of full-grain. |
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| Other types
of leather |
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Full-Grain leather, made from the finest
raw material, are clean natural hides which have not been sanded to remove
imperfections. Only the hair has been removed. The grain remains in its
natural state which will allow the best fiber strength, resulting in greater
durability. The natural grain also has natural breathability, resulting
in greater comfort. The natural Full-Grain surface will wear better than
other leather. Rather than wearing out, it will develop a natural "Patina"
and grow more beautiful over time. The finest furniture, and footwear, are
made from Full Grain leather. |
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Corrected-Grain Leather (also called
"top-grain leather"). Corrected Leather is fuzzy on one side and
smooth on the other. The smooth side is the side where the hair and natural
grain used to be. The hides, which are made from inferior quality raw materials,
have all of the natural grain sanded off, and an artificial grain applied.
Top grain leather generally must be heavily painted to cover up the sanding
and stamping process. |
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Patent leather is leather that has been
given a high gloss finish. The original process was developed in Newark,
New Jersey by inventor Seth Boyden in 1818. Modern patent leather usually
has a plastic coating |
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Shagreen is a rough and grainy type of
untanned leather, formerly made from a horse's back, or that of a wild ass,
and typically dyed green. Shagreen is now commonly made of the skins of
sharks and rays. |
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Belting leather is a full grain leather
that was originally used in driving pulley belts and other machinery. It
is often found on the surface of briefcases, portfolios, and wallets, and
can be identified by its thick, firm feel and smooth finish. Belting leather
is the only kind of leather used in luxury products that can retain its
shape without the need for a separate frame; it is generally a heavy weight
of full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather. |
Original information from wikipedia.org
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